Ice Protection and Anchor Fundamentals

Group Type: 4:1
Skill Level: Intermediate – Advanced
Availability: Saturday

Learn the systems that keep you connected to the mountain. This hands-on clinic introduces climbers to the fundamentals of placing ice protection and building solid, efficient anchor systems.

$265 ($235+ $30 Meal + Event Ticket)

Overview

Participants will learn how to evaluate ice quality, select and place ice screws, understand proper screw orientation and spacing, and recognize good versus questionable placements. From there, the clinic will move into building and evaluating common ice anchors, including two- and three-screw systems, equalization, master points, anchor organization, and considerations for belaying from above or below.

The clinic will also introduce V-threads/Abalakov anchors, including proper construction, inspection, and their use for rappelling or backing up an anchor. Throughout the day, instructors will focus on efficiency, redundancy, and understanding why an anchor or piece of protection is reliable.

This clinic is ideal for climbers who are comfortable top-roping ice and want to begin developing the technical skills necessary to become more independent ice climbers.

Be sure to review our FAQ for more information on required equipment, travel, and all things Cooke City!

Topics may include

Evaluating ice quality, ice screw selection and placement, screw spacing, anchor construction and equalization, master points and anchor organization, V-threads, backing up anchors, assessing existing anchors, and common mistakes to avoid.