2024 KEYNOTE SPEAKER - FRIDAY, NOV 21ST
Pete has been climbing rock and ice since 1990. Smitten at the age of 19, he went all-in for a life in the mountains: from his first climbs above Lake Willoughby, Vermont, throughout the Rocky Mountain West, north to the Alaska Range and south to the Andes—making a long career of professional climbing, guiding, coaching, and educating.
It’s the list of standard-bearing first ascents on frozen waterfalls and mixed terrain that precedes him—especially in Hyalite Canyon, Montana—where he found himself uniquely positioned as the “mixed climbing revolution” of the late 90’s and early 2000’s played out.
He feels that his greatest expressions were made on the cold walls of Alaska, particularly on the first free ascent of the east face of The Moose’s Tooth with Scott Adamson. The pair climbed the storied 5,000’ face in a continuous 27-hour push.
Pete Tapley
Whit Magro
2024 KEYNOTE SPEAKER - SATURDAY, NOV 22ND
Whit Magro has spent the last three years making numerous attempts and failures trying to accomplish his project. Pilot/Index is the kind of climbing project that tests both skill and character, combining the thrill of alpine climbing with the camaraderie that makes every step worthwhile. Setting a goal like climbing these two peaks via a mixed route requires careful planning and relentless persistence, especially when faced with the uncertainties of weather and terrain. There are moments when failure seems inevitable-slipping on a crux, turning back due to shifting conditions, or simply reaching your physical limits—but it's in those setbacks where the true growth happens. Every decision, from the route choices to the gear you bring, shapes the journey and becomes part of the story. Success, when it comes, feels sweeter knowing it's been earned through grit and teamwork. But above all, it's the good times shared with friends that linger the longest- the laughter around the campfire, the quiet moments of camaraderie on the wall, and the sense of belonging that makes alpine climbing more than just a sport. It's a reminder that sometimes the journey, with all its ups and downs, is just as rewarding as the summit itself. Don't miss the Whit Magro presentation on Saturday night, Nov 22, at the Cooke City Community Center.
Lightning in a Bottle. Living to Tell.
Pete will be presenting a 45-60 minute multi-media retrospective covering three decades of ice, mixed, and alpine climbing: from Pete’s first discovery of climbing to the capstone of his career, with careful introspection of the 2000s “modern mixed revolution” as seen from the inside.
“I want you to come away from this presentation with a sense of empowerment and understanding—now is your time to hold and carry the soul of the sport and for you to stand upon the shoulders of great climbers past ...”
This is tempered with an understanding of responsibility: to not only honor where we come from but also a responsibility to respect the very real and fatal consequences of outpacing good judgment with performance. It is a fine line to walk.